Are you wondering why your Fly Predators haven't hatched yet and want to know how to help them hatch quicker? Jess our Fly Predator Scientist has the answers...
Why Fly Predator Hatch Times Vary
The species that comprise Fly Predators have a life cycle that is very dependent on overall average temperatures. At ideal conditions (around 85°F) it takes a minimum of 2 weeks for the Fly Predator to develop from egg to adult. At much cooler temperatures, they can take 6 weeks or more to hatch.
Generally, we try to send out Fly Predators that have already been incubated for about a week, so that in the warm summer months, they will begin hatching within 5 days of arrival. However, temperatures during travel and temperatures where they are being kept can have large impacts on how quickly Fly Predators hatch. During the first shipment of the season, it’s not unusual for your Fly Predators to take 10 to 14 days after arrival to emerge. It’s much faster than that during the heat of August.
How Do I Help My Fly Predators Hatch Quicker?
If your weather is warm and you want to make sure your Fly Predators hatch as quickly as possible, keep them at a consistently warm temperature once you receive them. Don’t put them in direct sun as this can make them too hot while in the bag. On top of a refrigerator is a cozy place, but write a note so you don’t forget them.
If your weather is cooler than normal, particularly if you have a chance of freezing night time temperatures, you will want to slow down the hatching of your Fly Predators. If they traveled through cool temperatures on their way to you (which often happens in the early spring and late fall), even once kept consistently warm, it may take 2 weeks or more for your Fly Predators to hatch. If kept outside once they arrive, and night time temperatures are still falling down into the 50’s, this could also result in delayed hatching, even if daytime temperatures are getting into the 70’s or higher. You can match the speed of emergence to match your weather, which is also how quickly your pest flies will be emerging.
Bottom line: don’t worry if your Fly Predators don’t hatch right away in the spring and fall. Try to keep them in a consistently warm location, such as on top of a refrigerator or other electrical appliance that generates a little heat (just don’t cook them).
If you're not happy with your fly spray, Bye Bye Insects™ is one to try next! It's based principally on Essential Oils and it's the first essential oil product to work comparable to synthetic chemical pesticides like Pyrethroids. There's lots to love and it smells great too!
Don’t take just our word for it, below is a survey from 2019 customers on what they thought of Bye Bye Insects. By contrast, have you ever seen a fly spray manufacturer publish a customer satisfaction survey?
Spalding Labs has been doing detailed surveys and publishing the results with Fly Predators since 2004. This premier year with our Bye Bye Insects survey follows this tradition and we've had almost 1,100 responses so far. The vast majority of Bye Bye Insect customers like it, a LOT!
If you use fly spray, give Bye Bye Insects a try next year! You can read more about Bye Bye Insects by CLICKING HERE.
Actual results from our survey are below.
Absorbine’s UltraShield Green and Red, Farnam’s Tri-Tec14 and Bronco, Pyranha’s Spray & Wipe, SmartPak’s OutSmart, Spalding’s Bye Bye Insects are trademarks of those respective companies.
Fall is upon us, so Winter won't be far behind. Soon we'll need to batten down the hatches and close up everything to keep our horses as warm and cozy. When you couple being all closed in for winter with sweaty saddle pads, moist leather, urine and manure you’re in for some serious “barn odors” that are far from cozy. Bad barn smells are one factor but also consider yours and your horse's respiratory health. Fresh, clean air is a key component of that. Here’s 5 tips to help you keep your barn smelling like roses (well maybe not roses per se but at least not stinky winter “barn odor” smells) all winter long!
1. Fresh Air. Check your stable for proper ventilation. Without creating a massive draft, crack windows and stable doors at least for a short portion of each day to allow for fresh air flow through your barn.
2. Sufficient Bedding. Yes, proper bedding is costly but this is not a place to cut corners in the winter months when horses are standing in their stalls more often than not. Whether you bed on straw, shavings, or pellets make sure you have a sufficient amount of bedding to absorb urine in your stalls. Investing in quality stall mats can also mitigate the amount of bedding needed thus saving your expense on bedding in the long run.
3. Clean Up. Pick urine and manure from your stalls daily then spray Bye Bye Odor on the urine spots. Bye Bye Odor will eliminate the ammonia that is the byproduct of the decomposition of urine. You might think your barn smells fine. To really know how bad the Ammonia smell might be, get down at floor level where your horses noses spend a great deal of time and take a whiff. Ammonia is heavier than air so is worse down lower. It doesn't have to be this way. Ammonia not only smells bad but is detrimental to respiratory health. Bye Bye Odor eliminates the ammonia but likewise it has a light, refreshing, pleasant smell on its own.
4. Water Buckets. Don’t just refill water buckets but make a habit of dumping, rinsing and then refilling at least every other day. This is a year round tip. If you are just constantly refilling buckets with grain and hay remnants floating around it will sour. Encourage your horses to drink more water by keeping a fresh, clean supply readily available for them.
5. Blanket Maintenance. Try using a light fleece sheet under your winter blankets that you can wash easily and that will dry fast for reuse. This will keep the layer closest to your horse fresh plus wick away any sweat that might accumulate if they do get too hot, and cut down your grooming time by always having a clean layer on them. Winter blankets usually only get washed 1 or 2 times a season. If your horse rolls in manure and urine, spray those spots with Bye Bye Odor on your blanket and straps, let it sit overnight, then wash to neutralize the smell.
Transmissible Diseases, also known as Contagious Diseases, are those which are commonly spread from one infected individual to another, usually of the same species, but also frequently of another species. This occurs because of direct physical contact, but it also occurs from indirect physical contact. For example, if a person with a cold or flu sneezes near you, that is an example of indirect physical contact. However, if you touch the other person, and they have the virus on their hands or elsewhere on their body, that would be direct physical contact.
Transmissible diseases are also spread from one individual to another by the infected victim contaminating food or water, which is then consumed by the next unfortunate victim.
However, there is a third kind of individual, known as a “vector”, who can transmit diseases caused by micoörganisms (viruses and bacteria).
A common disease-carrying vector are insects. For example, mosquitoes transmit Malaria. A more common example are the diseases carried by flies.
Flies, attracted to the nasal discharge or tears or even saliva of an infected individual can inadvertently transmit disease-causing micoörganisms to other perfectly healthy individuals.
For horse owners this is often true during outbreaks of such common diseases as equine influenza and strangles.
Obviously, the disease in question may be prevented by vaccination. However, there are other preventative measures that are important.
For example, flies, including the common Stable Fly, are inevitably attracted to the nasal discharge of equines suffering from such communicable diseases. So further disease prevention can require the elimination, or, at least, sever reduction in such insects.
Controlling flies and other insect pests in the stable can involve many techniques. Examples include pesticides, keeping the premises free of manure and other wastes that attract flies, insect repellant sprays, fly traps and screens, the use of Fly Predators to destroy the fly larvae before they hatch, and even the use of Fly Traps to trap the insects that land on such adhesive products.
Reducing the population of such insect pests can help prevent horses from acquiring serious diseases, reduce discomfort, and making the stable a more desirable environment for both the animals, and the people who associate with them.
Before 1944 my equine experience was limited to horses. This included draft horses, Morgans, and other breeds. Then, as a senior in high school I was told that the National Ski Patrol was accepting volunteers from high school seniors for the Tenth Mountain Division, part of the U.S. Army. It trained in the Colorado Rockies. I applied because I knew that after high school, at 18 years of age, I would promptly be induction into the armed forces that were fighting in World War II.
The Tenth Mountain Division appealed to me because I loved horses and, although the Cavalry was now entirely motorized, mule packing was a major part of the 10th Division training, and mules were half horse. Moreover, skiing was an essential part of the training regimen, and because I wanted to learn to ski, as well as being a mountain lover, I acquired the necessary letter of recommendation from my Scoutmaster and former horse owning employers.
The National Ski Patrol sent me a letter stating that, following infantry basic training, I would be transferred to the Tenth Mountain Division Training Center in Camp Hale, Colorado.
I excitedly looked forward to the mules, the skiing and Colorado.
My mother, however, was dismayed. She had learned that the Tenth Division, fighting in Italy, had suffered the highest casualty rate of any U.S. Army Division in the war.
I comforted her by telling her that my transfer to the Tenth Division meant months of additional training before I was sent into combat.
As it turned out, the atomic bomb ended the war abruptly and I never got to serve in the Tenth. Instead I was shipped to Germany and spent a year in the post-war occupation, ending up as a 19-year-old criminal and denazification non-commissioned officer. No mules! No skiing! (But I did learn to ski on a furlough in the Bavarian Alps.)
Anyway, that was followed by eight years of college which included a lot of horse courses and patients, and summer jobs with horses like packing for the U.S. Forest Service (no mules), wrangling on ranches, cowboying. Even during the school years my equine jobs included working at the racetrack, working for a veterinarian, but… no mules.
Finally, in 1956, just short of 30 years of age, I became a practicing veterinarian. I can only remember one mule as a patient during my first two years of practice.
Then, after a few more years, we attended Bishop Mule Days in Bishop, California. The small, historic mountain town located along Highway 395 which runs along the Eastern border of the Sierra Nevada mountains. It calls itself “The Mule Capital of the World”, is headquarters for several packing outfitters, which serve both government and private projects, but mainly vacationers.
The Mule Show is a combination of a race meet, a rodeo, a gymnkhana, both an English and a Western Horse Show, a county fair and a circus.
The versatility of the hybrid beasts intrigued me. I became not only a regular attendee at Bishop Mule Days, but I decided to become a mule owner.
After adopting one mule and purchasing another I decided that the only way I could obtain the behavior I cherished in horses was to raise my own mules and handle them from birth onward.
We raised one or two foals a year on our small ranch, keeping some and selling others.
So, in 1980 we bred two good Quarter Horse mares to a Jack I had never seen. But, I had seen his offspring at Bishop Mule Days and was sure he would produce the kind of mules I wanted.
He did! Jordass Jean (my wife names them) was born first. She was the easiest equine to start that I ever experienced, before or since. “Jeanie” became famous, competing at Mule Days, winning the Hall of Fame. She excelled at English events, never refusing a jump in her life, and never – ever – showed hostility to a human. She did make pack trips, cattle roundups, and is the only mule in history to be invited to participate in the Olympics (Los Angeles, 1984, Santa Anita Racetrack, Equestrian Competition.) She did a flawless exhibition jump course.
Two weeks after “Jeanie” was born, a male mule was foaled at our place. Debby named him “Jassper”. I used him as my saddle “horse” until he was sold at age 12 and became a winning Team Penning mount. He ultimately ended up in Kentucky, ponying Thoroughbred colts during their race training days.
As the years passed, we raised and trained other mules. Why do they fascinate me?
The great horseman Pat Parelli, founder of The American Mule Association, once said, “Mules are just like horses, only more so.”
I know what he meant. The qualities of equine behavior, both the desirable and the less desirable, enhanced by hybrid vigor in two different, but compatible species – the horse and the donkey, are exaggerated in the mule.
If trained properly, the mule can often surpass both of its parents in many ways: strength, endurance, vigor, versatility and temperament. Typically smooth gaited and intelligent, they can bond strongly with people (like me).
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